Day 8 - Ghibli & Shibuya

Saturday, November 1, 2014

We are back in Tokyo, staying at the Tokyu Stay Nishi Shinjuku.  I would consider this more of a budget hotel.  It has a little kitchenette and washer/drier in the room.  Also, you don't get maid service daily.  So, more of an extended stay type of place I suppose.  We have a nice city view from our room and find this hotel quite acceptable.  There's a 7-11 just down the block which is a nice bonus.  It's interesting that hotels here don't have little bottles of shampoo -- soaps and shampoos are in a huge pump bottles.  But they do give you toothbrushes with tiny little toothpaste tubes.  They also provide pajamas, which we don't wear, and slippers. 

This hotel also has a weird TP sign, but I think I know what they are trying to say... "save the planet -- use less TP!"



Our first days in Tokyo were more of an old Tokyo itinerary with the temples and shrines of Asakusa, the fish market, the Imperial Palace gardens, and an onsen.  I guess this leg is more of new Tokyo with the hustle and bustle of Shibuya, the lights of Shinjuku and things like Karaoke and Cat Cafes.

We have tickets today for the Ghibli Museum in Mitaka.  Tickets for this museum sell out in advance so I bought mine months ago from JBT USA travel agency.  You pay a hefty surcharge but the tickets themselves are inexpensive and having them in advance is worth the extra fees.  Studio Ghibli is an animation studio founded by Hayao Miyazaki.  Miyazaki is like the Walt Disney of our generation.  He's an innovative, brilliant storyteller and a master animator.  His films are beautiful and varied.  Many take you to brand new worlds.  If you haven't seen any of his films, you should.

The museum is in Mitaka, which is outside of Tokyo, kind of like a suburb.  We'll take a subway and then a train.  When we are trying to figure out which train a kind lady helps us pick the train going in the right direction.  While we are riding she comes and finds us to tell us we have to get off and switch trains. She is very apologetic saying she gave us bad information as this was an express train and it doesn't go as far as we need to.  I tell her it's really fine -- we are headed in the right direction and half way there.   I'm thankful she found us and told us what was going on because I'm sure we would have been confused when we had to get off the train before arriving at our stop.  But basically we all just needed to get off that train, stand on the platform and wait for the train on the other side.   It was easy enough and the kindness of the Japanese people shines through again.

We walk through Inokashira park on the way to the museum and the rain begins to fall.  Thankfully, this will be our only rainy day.  We  have one umbrella to share, and I have my waterproof jacket on. We see another shrine -- bright red and very pretty.  It's the Benzaiten shrine and is devoted to the goddess of all things that flow -- like water, words, music, knowledge, etc. 


The Ghibli Museum is a work of art itself.  It was designed by Miyazaki and has the same whimsical charm of his films.  Most of the windows are beautiful stained glass scenes from his films.  We are not allowed to take photos inside but thankfully the museum sells a little book set with many photos.  One of the  most interesting things we see at the museum are volumes of storyboards for 2 recent films.  There were 4 huge books for each film with the entire film laid out in storyboard.  Each page was an amazing work of art.  One set was for "The Wind Rises" which may be Miyazaki's last film -- he has since retired.  The other volumes were for a new film called "When Marni Was There" which is the next generation of Ghibli talent.  I look forward to seeing it when it arrives in America.



At the museum everyone gets to see a short film. We saw one called "Treasure Hunting" and much of it was dialogue free, but even when they were speaking Japanese we knew what was happening. Just goes to show how much storytelling can be done with visuals. The museum was very busy and we couldn't get anywhere near the cafe so after seeing everything and shopping in the gift shop we decide to leave and find some lunch.  As we are walking down the sidewalk outside the park we see spiders one after the other. Huge orb webs in between every shrub and bush with a big green and red spider in it.  Dozens of spiders!  We are intrigued and horrified and decide we'd never leave the park pathways and go running through the greenery in Japan!



We find a little pancake house in Mitaka and my daughter really wants to eat lunch there.  It seats about 12 and it's so funny when it seems everyone is reading or playing on their phones as they dine.  Later, back in Tokyo, we'll see people lined up to get into a little pancake place.  I guess they are popular here.  We catch the train and head to the Shibuya Scramble Crossing.  Although it's rainy it should be plenty busy on a Saturday night.  We go into Starbucks which is one of the busiest in the world.  It has bar seating in front of huge glass windows giving great views of the crossing.  It's just November 1st, but no more pumpkin spice lattes -- it's all switched over for Christmas.  I get a chai latte and the kid tries a "snow maple toffee", which doesn't seem to be available in the USA.   We watch the crowds gather on the sidewalks waiting to cross, the lights change and people walk in every direction.  Over and over and over.  So many people.



We find the Hachiko dog statue which is a popular meeting place. My daughter was already familiar with the story from a movie she saw.


We decide it's time for shopping. I  know there's a Disney Store in the area, and although we don't buy anything it was worth stopping in just to see the floor that was decorated like Andy's room in Toy Story.  Really adorable.  The kid wants to stop in Forever 21.  Uh, don't we have those at home?  We fly half way around the world so she can shop at a store we have 10 miles from home?!  Oh well, she's really enjoying herself and finds a brand new outfit.  She's thrilled about her fashion finds. We eat pasta and salad again for dinner.  I think my daughter is an expert at finding pasta places -- we seem to eat pasta quite frequently here without really searching for it.  They often put tuna in the pasta, in salads too, but we both like tuna and don't mind.  It's a little place with pasta dishes for about $8 and salad for $5.  Really economical and good. 

I decide we need to do some Karaoke and we happen to walk by Big Echo which I've heard has a good selection of English songs.  In Japan you get your own small room so you can privately sing your heart out. No waiting for your turn, no having to endure other people's bad singing.  You just pick your songs and sing!  You can order food and drinks, but we were too busy singing.  We sing for an hour and it costs $12 per person, so $25 total.  It was really fun.  

We finish our night with a stop in 7-11 to get some uniquely Japanese snacks.  Sometimes we aren't sure what we're eating, but it's fun to try some new things.  We found all of these were somewhat tasty.